What is the purpose behind the tip at a restaurant? Is it
the friendly attitude and ‘can-I-help-you’ demeanor of the waiter or waitress?
Does it depend on how long it took to cook that “extra anchovy” pizza? Is the
food quality the reason, or is it all decorum and timing?
I guess everyone has an imaginary sliding scale in their
head on what determines a fair tip. Since the service is what I notice first, I
tend to weigh it higher than food quality. Everyone is different though.
The one thing most people know about the restaurant business
is that competition is fierce. That Korean BBQ place you like might go belly up
in a few years, that local deli with the perfect Ruben might be close to bankruptcy.
Even profitable ones are often one slow season from shutting the doors forever.
The reasons are pretty simple. Alternatives exist and even most small cities
have a handful of options for dinning out. From steak houses to Applebees and
everything in between, this country is chock full of places to gorge. Owners
decide daily on how to cut costs and remain profitable. One measure is in
salary for employees whether wait staff, cooks or bus workers. Retaining good
cooks, especially at swanky places, is imperative for offering top quality. With such tight profit margins owners are sometimes forced to use tip
pooling schemes to pad the salaries of everyone.
Understandably this doesn’t sit well with servers. At least
in those cases where they are used to tips as a part of their income, a ‘pooling’
requirement would undercut their totals. Currently the Department of Labor is
considering tossing out the Obama era’s policy that make’s pooling illegal. The
existing law bars restaurant owners from using server tips as a means to pay
cooks, bartenders and bus boys for their labor. President Trump’s proposal would
overturn that requirement, giving owners total control over payroll. At its
core, this law gives owners the freedom to make choices in the best interest of
their businesses.
Without the freedom
to make payroll choices though restaurants may find themselves quickly out of
business. The best option for any company trying to survive is to make
choices that fit their model and make sure everyone working there
understands it.
Some businesses get around the pooling law by adding a percentage
fee (10%) to the total bill after the sales tax. That way half the tip
(assuming a 20% gratuity) is already spoken for. It usually gets added to a
salary fund and divided among the ‘back of the room’ staff like cooks.
This does seem a bit like taking money from the servers, but again it depends
on what the tip represents. Is it a reward for excellent service, or payment
for a great meal and wonderful experience? If the former, than steeling the
server’s income is what it feels like. If the latter, than the staff shares in
the reward due to everyone.
I think the old model of servers getting the whole portion
of the tip is on the way out, probably has been for a while. I never think to
ask when eating out “How exactly is my tip being spent?” but most
establishments have probably figured out what works best for them by now. I
imagine if too many dine in places go the pooling route, good wait service will
see a huge drop off. That’s the downside. Removing the incentive for great
service means removing great service. There is some question as to how much of
a link there is between customer care and tip percentage. Most people put down
between 15% and 20% for even mediocre service; Acting ‘extra nice’ to paying
customers doesn’t seem to garner a higher percentage.
I don’t want to live in a country that doesn’t prize customer
service though.
US companies generally prize customer service, this is
especially true for dinning out. I went to Ireland a few years ago and ate
nearly every meal out, some at fast food short order places and some at proper
dining restaurants. In the short week I was there I noticed that places used to
hosting foreigners had decent to good service. One place even cooked for
us after the kitchen had closed from catering an all-day wedding. The burger
and fry joints were universally bad though, the service was worse than an 8
hour license check at the DMV. Slow moving workers, forgetful cashiers and
bland (really bland) food were the norm. “For the love of taste, has anyone
ever heard of seasoning salt!?”
The best incentive in customer service is money. I like a culture that emphasizes taking care of paying customers. We shouldn’t take away
that importance altogether even if it means the dinning business has to rethink
some core methods for paying its help.
FirstPrinciples
believes a one size fits all approach to paying workers is bad business and
hurts those with a unique model and a varied customer base. Let enterprising
owners decide how to hire and pay their own staff according to the model best
suited. Who can say what creative marketing ploy they might devise anyway to
attract hungry diners. If tipping wait staff for excellent service is what
customers want, use it as a selling point for your new venture. “Waiters get to
take home any extra tips” as a model, might just work for a large enough segment of your
city’s foodies. It would certainly attract good servers eager to earn higher
rates than the competition.
For exactly the same reasons I was against the smoking ban
for restaurants over twenty years ago. Some places cater to smokers. It seemed
silly to insist they all ban it. Don’t like working in a smoke filled dinner?
Don’t. You don’t like eating in a restaurant with a smoking section? Don’t.
There were plenty of places going smoke free before the ‘ban’. Let owners
decide which (smoking or non) is a better fit.
Putting one size fits all regulations on company restricts
their ability to compete. Put choice before out dated requirements.
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